We cut our stile pairs and rail pairs as one piece, running both sides of the piece with the same profile. A good smooth sliding sled is a must also, especially for short pieces.Īt our shop we usually make everything an eighth inch larger than final size. If you are going to cope the ends last, you need larger diameter cutters to get a clean cut without blowout. I clamp short stick cuts in a sled, like clamping the cope cut. For short pieces I simply tape them end-to-end and run as a longer board.Ĭut, cope, and then stick. I would cut to length, cope the ends and then run the stick. If I do the cope second, the quality is too low for my standards. If you do it correctly when you cut the last cope the bead should be first into the cutter so you don't get any tear-out of the bead. Cut it to length and then cut the other cope. For those short pieces, leave the piece long enough for your machinery to handle it easily. In a different situation I would cut the ends first on a wide board and go from there. It works, but it is a little slower and the cut on the end cope is not as clean. This time, since I had so many running feet of parts, I decided to rip everything to width and shape the long grain first. I think contributor B’s way is probably the best as well. It's easier than trying to handle skinny parts and you can cut off tear out if needed, and then run the edges. I cut the ends first but leave the stock wide, then rip pieces off. On the short pieces, I make a fresh 3/8" thick zero-clearance fence on the shaper, and feed these very carefully with a push block, taking a few light passes to sneak up on the final profile. I cope the ends first, and then shape the long grain. If you cut the ends first, you don't need the backer because the chip out is cut off when you cut the edge, but if you need some short pieces, you are out of luck. If you cut the ends last, you have to use some type of blowout backer. Do you cut the edge profile of your material in bulk first, leaving the end coping for later? Or do you cut all your lengths first, cope the ends, and then cut the long edge profile? I've done it both ways, and I see pros and cons to both. I'm talking specifically to anyone who uses the regular old shapers or router tables and does most of it manually. I'm in the middle of building 112 raised panel doors and I started thinking about what the correct sequence should be for shaping stiles and rails.
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